The Anatomy of a Fine Suit.

The Anatomy of a Fine Suit.


No one exudes power and competence like a man in a good-fitting suit. With the many options out there, however, it can be difficult to choose one that works for you. We demystify the process and let you know exactly what makes a fine suit.

Anatomy of a suit

First and foremost, to be considered a suit, the ensemble must be a jacket and pants of matching fabric and style. While a blazer or sport coat can be worn with non-matching pants for a more casual look, this is not a suit and should not be considered as such. Here are some variables to consider when choosing the right suit for you:

  • Jacket design.Single-breasted suits with two buttons are a classic look and you can't go wrong choosing one. Double-breasted suits tend to be fitted a bit tighter around the waist and so are more appropriate for slim builds. If you have any doubt we'd recommend sticking with the more traditional single-breasted jacket.
  • Lapel type. Jacket lapels come in three varieties: the notch, the peak and the shawl. Notch lapels are common and contain an angular cutout (called the gorge) near the collarbone of the wearer. Peak lapels usually sit slightly higher on the wearer's shoulder and, while still angled, have a less pronounced gorge. Peak lapels exude an image of power and being in control of the room. They are great for high-leverage situations. Shawl lapels have no cutout and are seldom seen outside of tuxedo jackets. Each type of lapel can be made in skinny (2.5 inches) to wide (4+ inches) style. If you are a large man, steer clear of overly skinny lapels, as they can make you look as if you have outgrown your suit. In the same way, overly wide lapels on a smaller man can make your suit look ill-fitting. Your suit should be an extension of you and your powerful presence.
  • Choose from flat front or pleated designs, according to your personal preference. Pleated pants tend to look more formal and flat front pants more casual. The break of your pants refers to how much fabric will gather and where. A flood break will hit at or slightly above the ankle. This is a trendy look that will show off your socks. A full break is longer and will cover your socks.
  • Generally speaking, you should take any suit and have it custom tailored so that it fits you properly. If the shoulders are too wide, or the sleeves too baggy, your suit won't look good. It's rare that a suit off the rack will be a perfect fit, so never be discouraged if you need to have it altered a bit. It's worth a trip to the tailor to have the best fitting suit possible.
  • Suits come in many different materials. Flannel or tweed is popular in the winter, while cotton is good for warmer months. Wool is a particularly fine material to wear year round, and if you plan on only buying one suit, that would be our recommendation.

For decades, the Ike Behar name has been synonymous with craftsmanship and quality in men's fashion. If you are in the market for a new suit, view the current collection on our website. You are guaranteed to find something that makes you feel like the best you.

Back to blog